11:00PM last friday:
My friend calls me inviting to head this secret island on Saturday because of the Typhoon swell. Lucky me, otherwise I would spend the whole weekend at the Lab doing my delayed experiments. After seeing the forecast, I was pretty sure that this swell would smoke.
After checked the reefs around, we confirmed that almost of the points were closed out. Surf at a barely protected righthand point break with another 30 hungry surfers to warm up. We did ride some long fun walls with 4 foot, just in case thinking on the possibility that the island would be unsurfable.
We drove until the harbour and took the boat to the island.
No need to say anything. Just check the photos below.
Stoked faces with broken boards. Is it possible? Yeah, when it's pumping, after ride some good ones...
Results of this session:
7 surfers sharing these conditions
3 broken boards
150 'uhuuuuus' screamed to the bro's at outside
4 liters of Isotonic drinks
5 hours laughing after the session
4 minor accidents with our skins