My friend calls me inviting to head this secret island on Saturday because of the Typhoon swell. Lucky me, otherwise I would spend the whole weekend at the Lab doing my delayed experiments. After seeing the forecast, I was pretty sure that this swell would smoke.
Saturday, 6:00AM:
After checked the reefs around, we confirmed that almost of the points were closed out. Surf at a barely protected righthand point break with another 30 hungry surfers to warm up. We did ride some long fun walls with 4 foot, just in case thinking on the possibility that the island would be unsurfable.
Saturday, 9:00AM:
We drove until the harbour and took the boat to the island.
Saturday, 11:00AM:
No need to say anything. Just check the photos below.
Stoked faces with broken boards. Is it possible? Yeah, when it's pumping, after ride some good ones...
Results of this session:
7 surfers sharing these conditions
3 broken boards
150 'uhuuuuus' screamed to the bro's at outside
4 liters of Isotonic drinks
5 hours laughing after the session
4 minor accidents with our skins
