This day will remain in my mind forever. My friends and I went to Japan sea into two secrets point breaks at same day. Swell was pumping 3-5 foot with NOBODY in the water. Freezing water, but i didn't mind. Hollow lefts first, and during the afternoon long hot dog rights. I was totally stoked after surfing...
My little board (5'6) surprisely worked well. Good girl.
Cheers,
Cassio
1 comment:
Scret Spot sempre vão ser a arma secreta que acaba com qualquer ressaca ou mal humor de um surfista. Essas esquerdas são ala norte do Perú, LOBITOS, diga-se passagem!
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